Travel Arrangements Made

From Rochester to NYC to Dublin to Madrid

I will have 5 weeks to explore Ireland and Spain. The focus of this Camino is the Celtic experience, obviously with Ireland, but no matter how my Spanish part works out, it is looking to be in Galicia (which has Celtic origins for those who didn't know).

Notable Memories

Completed my application for the Trusted Tourist Program with Customs and Border Patrol. I really have no desire this time to mess with long lines at TSA checkpoints. That will be especially true when I return from this Camino.

The Dingle Way wraps up the Kerry Camino (Tralee to Dingle - approx 4 days).

Luck or Providence

Recently a set of circumstances came together to afford me extra cash. An inner drive is taking me to explore wider things. Put the two together and I'm looking to step out farther and further.

There are so many options in Spain: Camino Sanabres (9 days) and Camino Ingles ( 5 days ) and so on.
Then jump across the ocean to Ireland: Dingle Way ( 10 days ) or to Wales ( __ days ). I could go on and on ...

Possible Caminos

Camino Sanabres

This quiet variant branches from the Vía de la Plata near Zamora. It takes the pilgrim directly to Santiago by completely bypassing the Camino francés. 43 km northward from Zamora in the rural village of Granja de Moreruela (on the Vía de la Plata), it takes the hiker northwestward through Puebla de Sanabria to Santiago. 

Dingle Way

Low-lying land and scenic hikes alongside mountains accentuate this rustic west-Ireland hike. There is one day of trail ascension when the pilgrim reaches Masatiompan with a 660 meter above sea-level climb. All kinds of terrain make up the Dingle Way, including small roads, beaches, open farmland and mountainous moorland.

Camino Ingles

Also known as the Antiguo Camino Real (Old Royal Way), this path provide a route from Ferrol or A Coruña to Santiago. In olden days, it was frequently used by pilgrims of various nationalities from northern Europe, arriving by sea, to make their pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago.

Taith Pererin Gogledd Cymru (North Wales Pilgrims' Way)

Approximately 130 miles long, hike past tiny stone churches nestled into the hills. Highlights on this pilgrimage include the 12 foot high cross at Maen Achwyfan – a thousand years old, carved with Celtic knotting and still standing enigmatic and isolated in the middle of a field, with its mix of Christian and pagan symbols. At the end, we cross the sea in an open boat and arrive at Bardsey Island, reflecting on all that has gone before and all that is to come.

Possible Hiking Options for an All Celtic Camino

Part I	Part II	Part III
Camino Sanabres	The Dingle Way	Camino Ingles
Camino Sanabres	The Dingle Way	Pilgrims Way N Wales
Camino Sanabres	The Dingle Way (5 dy)	Camino Ingles (10 dy)
Camino Sanabres	The Dingle Way (10 dy)	Camino Ingles (5 dy)

Lessons From The Camino

Four Life's Lessons From the Camino

Every camino has taught me something. Each lesson came as a complete surprise in that I was not actively engaged in inner reflection. However, something about the Camino at that place at that time in the circumstances of that moment showed me 'the way' to a better life.

A Camino is a journey, not a place.

A person's Camino de Santiago doesn't just happen in Spain. If you are open to the spirit of being a pilgrim, there are many things to enjoy back at home. Here are memories from a week of volunteering at Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, Kanab, Utah - a different kind of camino - volunteering and caring for the shelter dogs at 'Dogtown'.

On this trip in 2016, my purpose was to remember my forever 'Harold' who had recently crossed over the Rainbow Bridge.

Lesson 1: Red Hollow Canyon. You never know what you will find until you turn the corner.

Patience Is a Virtue

While here I met Zeke, a rescue with severe personality issues. Zeke learned to trust people by hiking and being together with me about 20 hours of every day.

Lesson 2: Bill Bay Canyon.  In life, it's okay to back out and try something different.

Past Experiences

Year	Place	Realization	Scale 1 - 10 (max impact)
2014	Fuente de Cantos	Humility	7: Falling short is human.
2015	Sevilla	Patience	8: The Camino provides what you need.
2016	Meseta	Inner Acceptance	5: It's the journey, not the destination.
2017	Cruz de Ferro	Appreciation for life	8: Ships are safe in port. They belong at sea.

Lesson 3: Angels' Rest, Best Friends Sanctuary. Letting go hurts but only for a while

I once had someone tell me how they did not understand 'dog' people because they always put the dog ahead of other things in life. 

I don't quite agree with the statement, but I did spend an hour in Angle's Rest, finally letting go of Harold, a damn fine dog for all of his issues - and he had some issues. :<)

Lesson 4: Letting Go Is Okay

A pilgrim (YouTube Alexandra Liss - "I Would Walk") explained how she learned on the Camino that letting go doesn't have to be scary, and that when you do, something  good comes into your life. Later that day, I went back to Dogtown HQ and adopted Zeke. For two years now he has been at my side.

Differences Between the CdS and the AT

Thru-Hiking Versus A Pilgrimage

Ask yourself this question. "Would I abandon a long walk?" or "Would I struggle harder at a pilgrimage?" I know it is not fair, because I worded the questions with an underlying inner -bias at how I perceive the reason to 'pack it in' or to 'put the nose to the grindstone'. 

But IMHO, it is one of the differences that define being on the Camino. I base this not only on my perceptions of the experience, but on the many conversations that I have had with other pilgrims, and with some of the folks that I have met in life who enjoy the thru-hiking experience.

Naturally we are all different and bring different amounts of drive, desire and passion to our activities, but we are all also human with common threads of needs, urges and the complacency of having achieved something remarkable while feeling incomplete at the same time.

So for better or worse, here are some of my differences between thru-hiking the AT and making the pilgrimage to SdC.

Camino de Santiago

• 1. Sleep in albergues/hostels - no tent needed
• 2. Eat in restaurants/bars or cook in the albergue
• 3. Only carry enough food/water for the next town (usually less than 10 km)
• 4. Pilgrims generally do not have trail nicknames
• 5. The emphasis is on stopping and looking
• 6. Pack weight is less than 20 - 25 lbs

Atop Pico de Los Duenos, highest point on the Via de La Plata

Sometimes it's a path or a trail or a road

Appalachian Trail

• 1. Camp out - tent needed
• 2. Cook over a campfire
• 3. Carry food/water for several days.
• 4. Hikers have trail nicknames
• 5. The emphasis is on getting to the next camp site
• 6. Pack weight is more than 50 - 55 lbs

 
Mid-Atlantic Portion of the AT

Smoky Mountains

So there you have it. I'm sure the list is very incomplete, but these are the things that came to my mind based on my experiences. 

What think you?

Meals Before and After the Day's Hike

The Big Difference Between the U.S. and Spain

The most important things to remember about the Spanish people: Most do NOT eat a hot breakfast Most do eat supper after 9:00 pm. I eat to live and generally do not go out of my way to find a 'gastronomic' delight after a day of hiking.

Mealtime

Breakfast

Albergues may or may not have something in the morning. It will most likely be some kind of pastry and fruit and juice. There may be cereal and milk. It is highly unlikely that Spanish coffee will be available. A hostel may serve some sort of breakfast - normally continental.

I like to start the morning with a cafe con leche and pan normal tostado. (Pan bimbo is American style sliced bread. Blech!) That means I headed for the nearest bar (usually open by 6:30 or 7:00 am) after leaving the albergue/hostel. In the smaller towns, the bar could be full of pilgrims which is okay because it is an opportunity to talk about the day, the distance and other useful info.

I always purchase fruit and pastry the night before. If I don't find an open bar, they serve as a breakfast. If I do find an open bar, then they serve as snacks during the day.

If you should decide to treat yourself to a more upscale lodging, breakfast will be included. Again it will be a continental breakfast typically including fruit, bread or toast, pastries or cake, cheese and cold meats, coffee, tea and juice.

Churros, dipped in chocolate, make for a great way to start the day. (Usually only Sundays)

Lunch

Lunch is best if you stop along your day's walking in one of the many bars/cafeterias you will pass along the way. I like to stop in the small town places and avoid the highway-side places which are too much like truckstop food. It may be good, but it lacks the atmosphere of the small town, locals only places.

Another option is to stock on items the night before with the intention of a picnic lunch under a tree or in a park along the way.

Mid-day meals are generally light. Save your stomach for the evening.

The fritatta (eggs and potatoes) is a light but energy packed lunch.

Jamon (ham) and Queso (cheese) makes for another great lunch. 

Gazpacho is a light and refreshing ?drink/soup?. Depends on how you like it.

Dinner/Supper

Invariably, the community dinners at the albergue/hostel are the best. You won't have much choice, but the food will be home-prepared and the company will be fantastic. You've been walking all day (maybe with your dinner companions or maybe not), and now you can share all those experiences.

So I love the 'Menu del Dia' and the Pilgrim's Meals. You can have an inexpensive, but usually good Menu del Dia or Pilgrim's Meal in the local bar/restaurant.

The Spanish are meat-centric. If you are vegetarian or vegan, you will find yourself making the evening run to the town grocery store (mom-and-pop) to buy items to cook yourself.

Menu del Dia and Pilgrim's Meal

With either you should start with a choice of three starters (soup, salad or ...), followed by three choices of main meal (chicken, pork, beef, fish with potatoes or pasta) and several deserts (cheesecake, crème caramel, ice cream (the individually wrapped kind) or fruit - like one apple or banana).

Wine is generally included in your meal, but Coca-cola or other sugary drinks won't be.

The difference is that the Pilgrim's Meal will be slightly less costly and have fewer options.

1st course: (House salad, vegetable soup, salted noodles w/shrimp, chick pea stew)
2nd course: (roasted steak w/herbs, baked chicken w/ham strips, lemon-seasoned sole, grilled hake fillet)

Choices ... choices ... choices

Lodging on the Camino - Part II

Albergues

The term 'albergue' comes from the Spanish verb 'alborgar' which translates as 'to support'.

Community Experience

Private

These albergues are run as a business by individuals, families or groups. You can expect extras e.g. meals, wash/dryer, internet, wifi, etc. Prices will be higher ( €15 per night). There may be less of the community feel of the pilgrimage, but you are more likely to get a private room, or room with fewer beds in it. The atmosphere can range from cozy to impersonal.

Ermita Nuestra Senora de Belen, Pueblo de Sancho Perez, Extremadura

Association

The albergues are operated by various pilgrim associations from around the world. You can expect to meet other pilgrims who have completed or been on the Camino in their past. The staff are experienced in the needs and desires of pilgrims at the end of long day of walking. The albergues use donations to provide services to pilgrims.

Association Albergue in Fuenterobles, Castile y Leon

Parochial

These albergues are maintained by religious institutions such as monasteries, convents or local churches. Expect a more spiritual and community-based experience. Don't worry about attempts to convert you or force religious views on you.

Do be prepared for expectations that you will join the community dinner, help out beforehand and after and have a curfew. If you are not back when the doors are closed, you won't get back in until the next morning.

If a simple, but very supportive environment appeals to you, the volunteer caretakers are ready to provide it. These kinds of albergues are usually offered on a donation basis 'donativo' or for a low fixed price. Don't cheat them by not leaving a donation. Consider 10 euros.

Municipal

As the name suggests, the local government maintains the facility. The support folks will not be on-site. When you arrive in the town, you may need to phone the staff. Municipal albergues generally are inexpensive, often less than 10 euros for the night.

Correspondingly the services are minimal: dormitory style with community bathrooms. Many time the albergue is a re-purposed schoolhouses or community center, and may be attached to the community public sports buildings 'polideportivos'. Be prepared for lots of noise during sports season.

Municipal Albergue in Calzadilla de Tera, Castile y Leon

Camping

Pretty much forget about it. Most of the camino is on easements (private land made accessible to pilgrims), and such types of arrangement do not allow for camping.

Lodging on the Camino - Part I

Ritzy

Paradors, Pensiones, Hostales, Casas Rurales and Hotels

Paradors

These are historical significant buildings that have been refurbished and converted into 5-star lodging. You can count on high-quality service and expensive prices ... very expensive prices.

Parador de Zafra, Spain

Casa Rurals

These are specialized country properties, e.g. farm houses or homesteads. The idea is that these types of lodging honor the local style of buildings and architecture of the area.

Typical Casa Rural (Come in all kinds of styles)

Pension

Typically they are privately run B&Bs, which make private rooms available, usually most with shared bath. Basically there are a range of amenities (private bath, breakfast, lounge, patio, etc) and prices. 

Hostels

These comes in all kinds from dormitory style to single rooms. Expect to pay more euros for more privacy.

Typical Hostel in Madrid

Daily Living

Everyday Items

Water

Carry water! On some stages there are towns every few kilometers. On other stages you may go more than 20 kilometers without water availability, especially the Caminos from the south like the Via de La Plata, Levante, Ruta de la Lana, etc. 

Generally water fountains along the stages are drinkable. You may or may not choose to use them. If you don't use them, you will need to carry water sufficient for the entire day's distance.  There are two primary ways to carry water with you.

Bladders

Refill in the morning. A tube exits from your pack and runs down the shoulder strap to a little Velcro loop near your head. When you want water, you just pull the valve to your mouth, bite down to open it, and suck. Bladders work on the principal of gravity so you have to place them proper side up in order to draw the water. Condensation may get things in your backpack slightly wet. 

Plastic bottles

Refill as you need to. Do NOT just toss them aside as trash. Keep the Camino clean.

Cooking in the Albergue

You can have your own community meal even in albergues that offer one. Pilgrims often get together on their own and purchase food items at the local shop, and then set to work in the albergue kitchen (if available) to make their own feast. Aside from being cheaper and always feeling like you are in a restaurant, there is the trail bonding over a kitchen stove and sink.

Washing Clothes

Washers and dryers will not be available at most albergues.

Don't take your clothes into the shower. Period. You're tying up the shower while your wring/rinse, and you will be using up hot water.

The first thing I did at every albergue was the day's laundry to give time for the clothes to dry. If the weather is damp, quick-dry stuff might dry, but heavier materials like flannel will still be damp the next morning. Make this a top priority to give your clothes maximum time to dry. Damp clothes the next morning is just annoying.

I changed outer shirt, underwear and socks every day which means they got washed every evening, almost always in the sink with hand soap and a good wringing. I would switch pants every other day, unless it was particularly hot, sweaty and/or dirty day.

Hand soap worked really well for washing clothes. Carrying specific soaps will probably just take up space in your backpack.  If a washing machine/dryer was available, I put in as much clothing as I could fit.  If you can share a washer/dryer with another pilgrim, you can save money.

Bring along your own large safety-pins for hanging your clothes. The clothes line may not have enough space left for hanging clothes. It might also be worth it to bring along a section of line to substitute if the regular clothes line is either full or outside (and it is raining).