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Tuesday, June 12, 2018

Meals Before and After the Day's Hike

The Big Difference Between the U.S. and Spain

The most important things to remember about the Spanish people: Most do NOT eat a hot breakfast Most do eat supper after 9:00 pm. I eat to live and generally do not go out of my way to find a 'gastronomic' delight after a day of hiking.

Mealtime

Breakfast

Albergues may or may not have something in the morning. It will most likely be some kind of pastry and fruit and juice. There may be cereal and milk. It is highly unlikely that Spanish coffee will be available. A hostel may serve some sort of breakfast - normally continental.

I like to start the morning with a cafe con leche and pan normal tostado. (Pan bimbo is American style sliced bread. Blech!) That means I headed for the nearest bar (usually open by 6:30 or 7:00 am) after leaving the albergue/hostel. In the smaller towns, the bar could be full of pilgrims which is okay because it is an opportunity to talk about the day, the distance and other useful info.

I always purchase fruit and pastry the night before. If I don't find an open bar, they serve as a breakfast. If I do find an open bar, then they serve as snacks during the day.

If you should decide to treat yourself to a more upscale lodging, breakfast will be included. Again it will be a continental breakfast typically including fruit, bread or toast, pastries or cake, cheese and cold meats, coffee, tea and juice.

Churros, dipped in chocolate, make for a great way to start the day. (Usually only Sundays)

Lunch


Lunch is best if you stop along your day's walking in one of the many bars/cafeterias you will pass along the way. I like to stop in the small town places and avoid the highway-side places which are too much like truckstop food. It may be good, but it lacks the atmosphere of the small town, locals only places.

Another option is to stock on items the night before with the intention of a picnic lunch under a tree or in a park along the way.

Mid-day meals are generally light. Save your stomach for the evening.

The fritatta (eggs and potatoes) is a light but energy packed lunch.

Jamon (ham) and Queso (cheese) makes for another great lunch. 


Gazpacho is a light and refreshing ?drink/soup?. Depends on how you like it.


Dinner/Supper


Invariably, the community dinners at the albergue/hostel are the best. You won't have much choice, but the food will be home-prepared and the company will be fantastic. You've been walking all day (maybe with your dinner companions or maybe not), and now you can share all those experiences.

So I love the 'Menu del Dia' and the Pilgrim's Meals. You can have an inexpensive, but usually good Menu del Dia or Pilgrim's Meal in the local bar/restaurant.

The Spanish are meat-centric. If you are vegetarian or vegan, you will find yourself making the evening run to the town grocery store (mom-and-pop) to buy items to cook yourself.

Menu del Dia and Pilgrim's Meal


With either you should start with a choice of three starters (soup, salad or ...), followed by three choices of main meal (chicken, pork, beef, fish with potatoes or pasta) and several deserts (cheesecake, crème caramel, ice cream (the individually wrapped kind) or fruit - like one apple or banana).

Wine is generally included in your meal, but Coca-cola or other sugary drinks won't be.

The difference is that the Pilgrim's Meal will be slightly less costly and have fewer options.

1st course: (House salad, vegetable soup, salted noodles w/shrimp, chick pea stew)
2nd course: (roasted steak w/herbs, baked chicken w/ham strips, lemon-seasoned sole, grilled hake fillet)


Choices ... choices ... choices

Lodging on the Camino - Part II

Albergues

The term 'albergue' comes from the Spanish verb 'alborgar' which translates as 'to support'.

Community Experience

Private

These albergues are run as a business by individuals, families or groups. You can expect extras e.g. meals, wash/dryer, internet, wifi, etc. Prices will be higher ( €15 per night). There may be less of the community feel of the pilgrimage, but you are more likely to get a private room, or room with fewer beds in it. The atmosphere can range from cozy to impersonal.


Ermita Nuestra Senora de Belen, Pueblo de Sancho Perez, Extremadura

Association

The albergues are operated by various pilgrim associations from around the world. You can expect to meet other pilgrims who have completed or been on the Camino in their past. The staff are experienced in the needs and desires of pilgrims at the end of long day of walking. The albergues use donations to provide services to pilgrims.

Association Albergue in Fuenterobles, Castile y Leon

Parochial

These albergues are maintained by religious institutions such as monasteries, convents or local churches. Expect a more spiritual and community-based experience. Don't worry about attempts to convert you or force religious views on you.

Do be prepared for expectations that you will join the community dinner, help out beforehand and after and have a curfew. If you are not back when the doors are closed, you won't get back in until the next morning.

If a simple, but very supportive environment appeals to you, the volunteer caretakers are ready to provide it. These kinds of albergues are usually offered on a donation basis 'donativo' or for a low fixed price. Don't cheat them by not leaving a donation. Consider 10 euros.

Municipal

As the name suggests, the local government maintains the facility. The support folks will not be on-site. When you arrive in the town, you may need to phone the staff. Municipal albergues generally are inexpensive, often less than 10 euros for the night.

Correspondingly the services are minimal: dormitory style with community bathrooms. Many time the albergue is a re-purposed schoolhouses or community center, and may be attached to the community public sports buildings 'polideportivos'. Be prepared for lots of noise during sports season.

Municipal Albergue in Calzadilla de Tera, Castile y Leon


Camping


Pretty much forget about it. Most of the camino is on easements (private land made accessible to pilgrims), and such types of arrangement do not allow for camping.

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