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Friday, October 26, 2018

Day 26: Vitorino dos Piaes to La Bruja

Day 26: Vitorino dos Piaes to La Bruja

Distance: 15 miles/ 25 km
Total: 253 miles

  Notable memories


Camiga Cathy

I had to admire Cathy this morning.

She's having foot issues with blisters. But I watched her with grace and composure deal with it.

Although it looks like she is ending her Camino because of it, I saw a person with dignity and self-respect hold her head up high, take the lesson from today and previous days and move forward.

By the time I left I don't think she had a firm plan yet, but in my heart I am confident that Cathy will come out on top.

Having walked with her for 3 days on the Camino Portugues, I realize what an intelligent and competent woman she is. And I wish her Buen Camino

The Camino Experience


After such a beautiful experience at Casa de Fernanda, I had to ask myself why was I in such a hurry to leave in the morning, just to cover a lot of distance.

I have my plane ticket and that imposes and exterior timetable, but what says that I have to follow that timetable.

I'm free to not go to Santiago just as I am free to stay on schedule and go to Santiago. I think this may be like thinking about retirement. It is an endpoint, it is not the journey.

The journey could involve things like picking up my grandkids at school once a week.

Or it could involve a little less work and still having the pleasure of being a computer programmer.

I think as I was sitting at the breakfast table, anxious to get going, I had temporarily forgotten the meaning of being on the Camino de Santiago.

I was having a little moment of anxiety because I could not have what I wanted. What I wanted was to both continue enjoying the ambiance and environment of Casa de Fernanda and traveling towards my next stopping point.

Although just a little bit of discomfort, in fact it was a lesson from the Camino to me that even in great joy there can be pain, and the point is not to swallow the pain or discomfort but to embrace it as a part of life and then to make your plans, understanding this life and to move forward in the best way humanly possible with dignity.

So I sat at the breakfast table and I enjoyed the comradery of my fellow pilgrims and I said to hell with the timetable. I will go as far as I can and I will go no further. Today.


Today's hike

Good hike today. Got in some extra distance, but didn't go as far as I originally planned. That's okay because I covered 15 miles today in about seven and a half hours and I felt pretty good at the end. 

It's amazing how the body adjusts to these kinds of demands.

 Tomorrow I have a 1,000 foot climb.

Vitorino in the morning




Morning walk through a pine forest





Ponte de Lima




Picnic in the Rio Lima LOL


Chapel at La Bruja



Day 25: Barcelos to Vitorino dos Piaes

Barcelos to Vitorino dos Piaes

Distance: 13 miles/ 22 km
Total: 238 miles

Notable memories

Today's hike

Today was a short hike because I wanted to get to this particular albergue. I noticed they have a community dinner in the description and I wanted to take part.

The hike itself had a lot of cobblestone and exposure to a lot of sunlight today. So I broke out the sun block. What a difference from Ireland.

Camino Experience

As I sit in the yard the owner is preparing supper and it smells absolutely delicious. Being that I did not eat yesterday, for supper, and only had two beers, I am extremely hungry right now. Really looking forward to this dinner.

It is bedtime now and today at Casa da Fernando was everything that I've been looking for on this Camino. 

I am so glad that I decided to stop here, rather than press on to what the designated stage was. 

At dinner we had great conversation about the Camino and about life. I met so many interesting people from so many countries as you can see in the picture at the bottom. 

If anything symbolizes learning and growth on the Camino, it is the ability to meet wonderful people from all over the world and share stories about our common experiences. We had smiles and laughs and tears at dinner, and it all was wonderful.

Something that often happens out here, is that fellow pilgrims begin to understand each other in a deep fundamental way because the trappings of life are stripped away and the responsibilities of life are removed and so in a sense of true personal nakedness, one can be open and honest here where one can't be back in the modern world.

Groking One Another (Wikipedia)

Robert A. Heinlein originally coined the term grok in his 1961 novel Stranger in a Strange Land as a Martian word that could not be defined in Earthling terms, but can be associated with various literal meanings such as "water", "to drink", "life", or "to live", and had a much more profound figurative meaning that is hard for terrestrial culture to understand because of its assumption of a singular reality.
According to the book, drinking water is a central focus on Mars, where it is scarce. Martians use the merging of their bodies with water as a simple example or symbol of how two entities can combine to create a new reality greater than the sum of its parts. The water becomes part of the drinker, and the drinker part of the water. Both grok each other. Things that once had separate realities become entangled in the same experiences, goals, history, and purpose. Within the book, the statement of divine immanence verbalized between the main characters, "Thou Art God", is logically derived from the concept inherent in the term grok.

Today's pictures


Pretty chapel I came across today

Cathy and I crossed today's finish line, the albergue Casa da Fernanda


Community meal at albergue Casa da Fernanda. 3 Brazilians, 1 Portuguese, 1 German, 1 Canadian, 1 American and 1 Finn 


Thursday, October 25, 2018

Day 24: Vilarinho to Barcelos

Vilarinho to Barcelos

Distance: 17 miles/ 27 km
Total: 225 miles

Notable memories

The hike

The hike was much more pleasant today. We left the urban zones behind and spent a lot more time crossing farm fields and various country paths and dirt roads and passing through groves and woods. It made for a much more enjoyable day.

Today Cathy and I stopped by the roadside with a foot-and-a-half shoulder to have lunch. We put our backs against the wall of a front yard. The owner of the house came by and apparently felt so sorry for us that she invited us into her front yard where we could finish our lunch. She may have been very worried about my long legs reaching into the roadway. Lol

Then later in the day, we crashed on a door stoop and as we were eating our afternoon snack, the owner came up. He recognized us as pilgrims and turned on the water for us so we could have something cold to drink and then he went back in his vineyard and pulled a bunch of grapes for us to have with our snack.

We showed our deepest appreciation at the kindness of both people and they wished us a buen Camino.

That is why I love the camino de Santiago.




Camino Amiga (camiga) Cathy and I enjoying a morning coffee and pastry on the way out of Vilarinho

On the road from Vilarinho to Bercelos








One of many artistic and decorative pieces around Barcelos. Found this guy after 2 beers and on the way to the supermarket.

Tuesday, October 23, 2018

Day 23: Porto to Vilarinho

Porto to Vilarinho

Distance: 16 miles/ 26 km
Total: 211 miles

Today's hike


I would classify it as a pretty unremarkable day. Most of the day was spent on Cobblestone or pavement, but that's how my guide described it so I was not surprised.

As opposed to the more basic type of hostel last night, I was in the mood to spoil myself. I came across a real nice one. It included shampoo and soap in the shower, a full place to hand wash my clothes including soap and lounge chairs to lay down in the sun. Yes, this classifies as luxury on the Camino.

Met a nice Canadian at the hostel as we were sitting in the sun loungers. Cathy and I chatted about grandkids, life ambitions, and s lot about the meaning of the Camino in our lives. Headed into the town center for a good supper which was loaded with vinegar and salt.

Notable memories

Here is a poem I wrote while sitting in the airport in Madrid.

Safe in Port


Rough waters 
   Whitecaps 
      Foam soaked air

Bow up 
   Crush the waves 
Bow Down 
   Waves break over 

Leading seas 
   Ship steers 
Astern seas 
  Ship reacts 
Abeam seas 
   Ship rolls 

Fair winds
   Sail on 
Following seas 
   Glide on 

Mainsail 
  Moves her 
Moonraker 
  Guides her

Love is safe 
   In port 
Love belongs 
   Like sailors 
      At sea


Beautiful little church I came across on the way out of the city

Monday, October 22, 2018

Day 22a: The Reaping of the Dingle Peninsula

The Reaping of the Dingle Peninsula 


A story conceived while walking the Dingle Way

Day 1: The Reaping Happens

Brielle, like everyone, never saw the reaping coming. It just happened. One day led into another and in the blink of an eye, everything changed.

She didn't know if it was fate that saved her or something she did in her past that somehow made her special. For whatever reason she was left behind. She was unfortunate to be in Tralee running her tech consulting firm, some 35 miles from Dingle and her family when every man, woman, boy and girl around her just up and vanished.

Declan, her husband, would have been tending to the flocks of sheep in their pasture, on the side of Ballysetergh Mountain, one of many of those verdant, green fields of lush grass that led to well-fed sheep.

Her kids, Alaina - 13 years old and Brody - 8 years old, would have or should have been in school.

That was a typical Tuesday for the shepard families of the Dingle Peninsula. Then everything changed. 

So Brielle found herself treading her way around the side of the Slieve Mish mountains, trying to get home.

Imagine that any method that you had to communicate with your family was gone. No smartphone, no internet, no post office. Imagine the complete collapse of civilization. They say a pre-tech society needs ways to eat in order to live. For Brielle her tech world society was over, finished. There was no way to get a message to her family.

Day 2: Slieve Mish mountains


Brielle was stepping from stone to stone to avoid two inch deep water and muck. The hiking shoes that she took from an empty Tralee shop were proving a godsend on this muddy, muck-ridden, slop trail. She went slowly because to lose balance meant her foot or feet would sink into the water and mire and soak her socks. That would mean blisters and that would mean having to walk painfully for long distances or to stop and hold up. Unthinkable.

Then a combination of factors did her in.

The glacial valleys, carved out of the mountain range, funneled the down drafts into horizontal wind shears which came roaring out of the valley. 

Good balance is important when you're jumping from rock to rock.

Just as Brielle took the leap to the next rock, the rock slipped and the windshear gusted. 

If you stick your hand out of a car window doing 60 miles per hour, you know what hit her. So she went into the water, up to her ankles. The inside of her shoes were waterlogged, the socks were soaked and her feet were numbingly cold from the mountain water runoff. She was very much further from her family.

Day 3: Village of Camp


She pressed on, assessing the cost. Already a hotspot was forming on the back of the heel of the right foot and if it got worse, she could add days to the time it would take to get back home.

Nothing editable for food survived without the power system. Fresh foods were ok but not for long. 

Every day out here left her hungrier.

As she descended out of the rocky Slieve Mish into the village of Camp, she hoped to see someone but kept her guard up for marauders. She was sticking to the Dingle Way trail to avoid street gangs in the villages and towns but wasn't even sure if anyone else had survived to form street gangs. 

Camp seemed like Tralee. No one - nobody - no bodies.

The mom and pop store door was opened and unattended. She stepped in to get food, but saw how the rodents and more - mice, squirrels, bats and billions of insects had taken over. All she had to choose from was their leftovers.

So be it.

Day 4: River Fingles


Thanks to be anti plastic bag laws, she had had lots of trouble finding a bag to put her shoes in. The plastic would keep the shoes and socks dry as she forded the river. It was not that wide but it was fast. Remembering her trouble on the Slieve Mish, she didn't want to have to hold up again for dry footwear.

Looking at the flow of water rushing downstream, she thought of the hustle of her career that often pulled her from the family farm and her family. In a sense, as the river eroded the banks, her job had eroded the happiness in her life. 

She couldn't have it all so she lost part of it and then thanks to the reaping - her fear was that there no family left for her to return to. As the water carried away the debris in the river, the reaping, like a burst dam, had wiped out her life. 

The fear of being alone and all on her own drove her to return to Dingle and the ranch. She prayed to whatever deity or deities were out there that they would have let her family survive.

Day 5: Inch Beach


Descending the hills surrounding Inch Beach, Brielle stepped onto the desolate sand flats. 

Inch Beach is a sand spit the reaches out to the north into the bay.

It has several claims to fame.

It's location captures wave action coming in from the Atlantic, leading to some of Ireland's best surfing.

And the fishing was great.

But not today. As she moved along the beach, Brielle sunk lower into despair as she saw no one at all.  Here they should have been someone, anyone, but there was no one. 

For the first time, she cursed herself for her choices.

She watched the waves crashing into the beach. They rose out in the distance where the slackening depth forced the wave water up, while the water in contact with the sand slowed down due to the friction, the water on top raced ahead, forming a cap and then tumbling down to create swirls and vortices and white caps of action and reaction.

Brielle, inside began to swirl and her outside began to tremble and she capsized forward onto the empty beach and she cried and cried and cried, leaving something of herself, her tears behind in the sand. 

But for naught.

Because as she cried and her tears fell to the sand, a wave would come in and wash away the tears, swallowing them into the vast reaches of the Atlantic where her tears no more mattered than the heavy downpour of an ocean storm.

Day 6: Annascaul

Brielle was so damn tired now. All she had to draw on was the same drive that she brought to her career as a structural engineer. Detail, precision, OCD and all those things that get in the way of a marriage and motherhood.

But not one of those things mattered now. Torsional twist strain of non bendable, semi-transparent, solar heating support for window structures. Who even cares now?

All alone and 12 miles to go to Dingle. Not a single person. No one. All alone in her heart before the reaping. Literally alone now after the reaping.

The dreams all night long were the worst. Like many people as the night went on, the dreams went from plausible to more and more crazy.

Alaina and Brody went to her arms and they cried and Declan waited his turn because he knew he would have her to himself in the most intimate way possible. Holding and hugging and lying next to each other, listening to the sound of each other's breathing and feeling the beat of each other's hearts.

Alaina and Brody ran to Brielle and almost made it when they stopped and Declan ran to them and pulled them back and somehow the harder that Brielle tried to run to them, the more the ground under her turned into the mud and muck of the Slieve Mish mountain and slowed her down.

Alaina and Brody stood before her and then disappeared. Declan stood before her, cursed her and disappeared.

Each time Brielle woke with a start, sweating more each time, and yelling and screaming and crying and kicking and punching, but always for worse, the dreams got more crazy.

Day 7: Dingle

They say that a week is the most that a person can go without food. It's only a few days for water. Water was okay from the mountain streams but the portability of water in the villages was questionable with no one to run the municipal systems.

Only miles to go, but the question was to what? Family and love or more absence?

8 miles and Brielle wanted to quicken her step, but she had to watch her capability to press on. Uphill and downhill.

6 miles to go. Crossing farm fields and gates and ladders and the absolute oddity of no people but still all the sheep in the meadows and cattle in the pastures and  even more odd, shepherding dogs still moving the herds even though they had no idea of where the final place was to be. Brielle felt like one of those animals, herded for no purpose, herded to no final pasture.

4 miles to go. Sit down and rest. This will be the final push. Either she would have her life back or she was the last and only person still alive in this new pristine, beautiful and quiet, natural world, not counting the lifeless human artifacts.

2 miles to go. Dingle was now visible. She saw the houses and steeple of  St Mary's church and the ocean and bay in the background. Somewhere on the far side of town, she prayed her family was there. That for whatever reason, Declan and the children were spared as she was.

Through the town now. Heading up the one lane road, up the hill to the sheep farm.

Voices. Recognisable voices. One man, one girl and one boy. She stopped to say a prayer and rounded the bend in the road. There was the house.

She exhaled deeply to see the loves of her life. Declan looked up and saw her. He smiled, he pointed, the kids looked towards her and smiled.

One step closer.

No answers, no clues. Only one small act of salvation in the hell that was the reaping of the Dingle Peninsula.









Day 20 to 22: Dingle to Santiago to Porto

Dingle to Santiago to Porto

Total: 195 miles

Notable memories

Where to next

I've been weighing all the options and it seems to me the best choice is the camino Portugues. So I've been checking the travel arrangements and I've got myself confirmed back to Santiago de Compostela. 

From there I can catch a bus to Porto, Portugal and begin the camino Portuguese.

Leaving Dingle

10/19 3:30 pm.  Caught the bus to Tralee.

10/19 5:30 pm. Bus to Dublin.

10/20 12:00 Dublin airport

10/20 3:00 pm London Heathrow

10/20 11:00 pm Madrid Barajas airport

10/21 9:00 am Santiago bus station

10/21 2:00 pm Porto, Portugal

Dublin

10:00 pm. Arrive and check into Spire Hostel. Headed out to a bar for Guiness ale and Irish folk music.


Madrid


It's odd but in Ireland, I did not feel at home. Warm, gracious people but I did not feel the fit.
Stepped off the plane in Madrid and I felt at home.

36 hours of travel so far. 2 busses and two airplanes done. Over night in the airport at Madrid and then in another 18 hours, I'll be in Porto, Portugal.

Santiago

Cafe Con Leche in the bus station. Life is good.


Porto, Portugal

Well, I spent a couple hours walking around the city. I have to be honest in that I was not impressed.

One goal I had was to get to the cathedral but when I got there it was not that impressive a structure. And also it was quite a distance from the albergue where I'm staying.

In fact if I had gone to the cathedral to start my Camino tomorrow morning, I would have gone backwards one or two miles and then had to add that distance back in to get out of town. So tomorrow morning, I'm heading for the shortest path I can take to get to the Camino and heading out.

Right now I am sitting outside the hostel and watching a thunderstorm rolling in. The breeze is refreshing. And the temperature is dropping.

Reviewing the Camino stages, and it looks like I do have one rest day in there if I want to take advantage of it. Regardless and it's always hard to believe, I can see the end of this year's trip coming. Because two Fridays from today I have to be on a train headed back to Madrid to catch my flight to the states. Incredible.

The highlight of my day in Porto was the evening dinner with other pilgrims. We had two German young women. One spoke English and the other English and Spanish. We had an Italian man who spoke Spanish. We had an Italian woman who spoke Spanish, English and German. And me who spoke Spanish. So we had lots of cross conversations and multiple languages all going on at the same time. It was a hoot.

Dublin at night along the river








 St James church in Dublin






 Cathedral in Porto


Anna (Germany), me, Eva (Germany)
and Enzo (Italy)

Monument of a lion crushing an eagle. Not sure of the significance.


 Pretty Park in Porto






Sunday, October 21, 2018

Day 20: Dingle and Back to Dingle

Day 20: Dingle and Back to Dingle

Distance: 10 miles/ 14 km
Total: 195 miles

Notable memories

The big change up

The misty rain came out of nowhere. 

And on top of that, as I was walking to Dunquin, I made five phone calls to various places.  All were either closed or booked up. So as I was walking along, that made me start to rethink continuing on the Dingle way. 

And as I walked in the rain, I really had to come to the conclusion that I did not want to spend the next 4 days completely unsure of my ability to find a place to sleep for the night.

It was just too late in the season to have even some reasonable assurance of places being open.

The weather was a factor, but not a significant factor. But it was in the back of my mind that I could not rely on accurate weather forecasts in order to plan the next day's hike. Even some local person that I was talking to along the way, remarked how her weather app indicated partly cloudy but certainly no indication of rain.

The trip still counts as a success. I had come to Ireland to hike the Kerry Camino. And I did exactly that. Everything else was going to be extra.

So the question now, is what's next. And on reflection, Wales would seem to have the same problem as continuing the Dingle way.

Returning to do the Camino Ingles is only 5 days of hiking. That would leave me with 5 days to fill.

So it occurred to me that maybe this is the camino's way of telling me that it is time to do the Camino Portuguese. The time frame is about right if I start from Porto, Portugal.

Dingle in the rain


 Ventry's amazing beach and it can't be seen due to rain and mist


 Dingle Harbor. Completely hidden when I left





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