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Saturday, October 13, 2018

Day 12: Punto Ulla to Santiago

Punto Ulla to Santiago

Distance: 12 miles / 20 km
Total: 151 miles

Notable memories

The final hike

Hike went fine today. It was 12 miles and I got an early start. Which explains why I was in Santiago by 1:30. Today was the first day that we really had rain. Was soaked by the time I got to - what do you call a place you get thru AirBnB?

I have completed the Camino Sanabres.

Pilgrims Office

I got to my room for the night, got a chance to unwind for a bit and then made it over to the pilgrims office where I got a lot accomplished. 

While I was standing in line for my Compostela, I booked myself a room in Dublin and I got my bus ticket from Santiago. 

Transport to Madrid

The bus will leave Santiago tomorrow night at 9:30 and pull into Madrid 7 a.m. at the airport. An overnight bus ride is not exactly comfortable, but on the other hand, it gets me right to the airport which is quite a convenience saver. I don't have to book a room in Madrid for the night or arrange my transportation to the airport.

 So things are in order.

The Pilgrims Mass

It was a beautiful Mass but they did not swing the huge incense burner that literally goes a hundred feet in the air this time. No problem. I saw it last year. It was a beautiful service and I made my confession in Spanish. That was a first.



Another typical trail day for my last trail day.


Passed under vineyards today


Raining. Just outside of Santiago. The sign says 6 kms to go.


At tonight's rest place. Very nice little apartment just a few minutes from the cathedral.



Pilgrims Chapel at the Pilgrims Assistance Center


After over a hundred and fifty miles, made it to Santiago de Compostela.


Plaza do Obradoiro


 Cathedral of Santiago before the 7 30 pm Pilgrims Mass


Cathedral at night


Dinner at last. Grilled peppers and calamari.

Friday, October 12, 2018

Day 11: A Laxe to Punto Ulla

Day 11: A Laxe to Punto Ulla

Distance: 17 miles / 29 km
Total: 139 miles

Notable memories

Motivation for today's walk

When I got up this morning I knew that I was either one day or two days out from Santiago, and  I was going to have to figure out how to split the distances.

Ultimately I decided to get as close as I could for the day. That turns out to have been right for a couple of reasons.

Deciding to cover as much distance as I could, I stuck to the National Road 525. Now this meant that I wouldn't see the typical beautiful forests and groves and everything.

I was going to get nothing but pavement and road all the way.

On the other hand I discovered how much stronger I have gotten over the past 12 days. How did I come to this conclusion? I was able to keep up quite the pace today.

I think I was doing in excess of 2.5 miles an hour. Instead of having steep hills to climb and descend, constantly slowing me down and tiring me out, today I was able to just keep the pace going and going and going. 

Solving the Ireland phone problem in

For 2 days now I've been trying to call Ireland to make sure that I have the right information on the Kerry Camino.

I spent two days with Google Phone support, who actually didn't help me at all. I actually figured it out.

Anyway the problem is that the phone numbers as listed on most web pages use the numbers '01' for the area code. Well when you're dialing the number internationally, I guess, you can't use the zero.

Zero has some special significance, I don't know what it is, nor do I care. But by including it, because I thought I had to, I was causing the phone connection to somehow short-circuit and hang up.

I read online that Irish area codes have either one or two digits. So I made the leap of faith that if the area code is 0-1, I should only use the one.

In fact that is what I did and my call went straight through to St James Parish in Dublin where I talked to a nice lady who told me what I need to do to get my pilgrim credential for the Kerry Camino on Monday morning.

And then it's on the bus to Tralee Ireland.






Thursday, October 11, 2018

Day 10: Castro de Dozon to A Laxe

From Castro de Dozon to A Laxe

Distance: 10 miles / 17 km
Total: 122 miles

Notable memories 


It was a beautiful day for a walk. Physically much easier.

Just confirmed my trip to Dublin Ireland for Sunday October 14th. I guess this means I'm hiking an Irish Camino this year. I only need to finish my Spanish one. LOL

No pictures today. I was just really working it hard to get the next albergue so I could take care of business about Ireland.

Not clear what is going on, but I'm not really feeling the Camino. Could be:
- having too much in my plans. Spain, Ireland, Wales
- familiarity with the Camino. Less of an adventure
- not having a major struggle to sort out. Just hiking this time
- 5 weeks is too long

Who knows?

Sonnet About a Mass that I Attended


Amber stone masonry echoes foot falls
Entering the church makes one feel silent
In the presence of the omnipotent
The faithful become ensconced in walls.

The faithful walk in, some near, some far
Everything and everyone looks so old
Tradition, habits, beliefs, faith grown cold
While Gregorian chant resonates ears.

Gregorian chant brings alive the calls
Lifting the spirits of the penitents
Desolation fades in the supplicants
As more emptiness grows in the stone walls

A dying tradition of hope and joy
As fewer and fewer come in to pray
Smartphones, tablets, I-phones, I-pass, I toys
What's left for tomorrow? What's left to say?




Wednesday, October 10, 2018

Day 9: From Cea to Castro de Dozon

From Cea to  Castro de Dozon

Distance: 13 miles / 21 km

Total: 112 miles

Notable memories

The Day's Walk

Being a little more in shape, and having to do less mountaineering, it was possible for me to spend more time enjoying the scenery around me. Today I  encountered all types of hiking terrain from paved roads to dirt roads to big stones completely taking up the trail. There was also a lot of huffing and puffing up and down steep hills, but no mountains.

Monastery at Oseira

One of the decisions that I made today, and am grateful for, was to detour about 3.5 miles to visit the monastery. It is a functioning monastery for a silent order of monks. It is also undergoing a major renovation. As I was walking by, a lady yelled to me that they were starting a tour in a few minutes. I elected to spend an hour there and was amazed. A very beautiful place.

Camino Amigos

The Camino provides lots of opportunities to meet interesting people. Today I met up again with a friendly couple from Poland. We spent several days together in the usual chit chat but it is always fun.

Today's  terrain












Oseira Monastery









Camino Amigos Sigmund and Anna from Poland


Tuesday, October 9, 2018

Day 8: Ourense to Cea

From Ourense to Cea

Distance: 12 miles / 20 km

Total: 99 miles

Notable memories

The walk itself was pretty and not too challenging.

Of course we had the usual hills to climb and descend, but at least there were no mountains today.

We have passed the point where people who only want to do the minimum can join the Camino. So there's a lot of folks in the hostel tonight. These are basically the 100km folks. So there's a definite change in the tone of the Camino.

All the folks that I've been hiking with went ahead, because I took that rest day.
Today French seems to be the predominant language.

The final thing to decide is how to end my Camino. Ireland is calling. The question is how many days do I take to reach Santiago. I don't feel like killing myself, but the longer I take to finish here, obviously the less I have elsewhere.

I'm scouting out prices to fly to Dublin. And it does make a big difference how early I reserved my ticket. So the sooner I decide the sooner I can save a big chunk of money.

Not too much else to say.

Another day in the mountains

Came over to say hello

Cea Town square


Stampede of sheep

Monday, October 8, 2018

Day 7: Ourense Rest Day

Rest Day in Ourense and Santiago

Morning stroll around Ourense. Attended the morning Mass at the cathedral. Then a train ride to Santiago to meet Jos. And now back in Ourense to prepare for tomorrow's return to the Camino.

Notable Memories

Of course, the biggest memory of today was the train trip up to Santiago to catch up with Jos, a Camino Amigo from 2016 from the Via De La Plata.

Jos and I had a good bonding experience in 2016. The memorable experience back then was the day we claimed the highest part of the Via De La Plata, grabbed a lunch under the cross on the hill top and looked out over the valley. We talked about our lives and dreams and hopes.

So today it was a pleasure to catch up with him again in Santiago where he had just finished his Camino, and I happened to be near by doing my Camino.

We stopped by the cathedral to get a look at the refinished facade, we had something to eat, and grabbed some beers. Of course, along the way we revisited all the pride that we have in our families and our lives and we talked about where we see ourselves in the future.

I consider him a great Camino amigo.

And I don't know if it will happen, but we will see, and we made plans to hike the Alps at some time in the future. That could be a lot of fun. Don't you think?

Morning stroll around Ourense







Galicia train ride





Jos and I meet in Santiago








Today's Story

Ghost Town

I should have paid attention to the frog lying in the road on the way into town. He was flattened and his arms, legs and head all pointed the way back out that I was coming in. Yeah. I should have listened.

Ghost towns can be really interesting, wondering about the people who lived and died there. What happened to their memories, dreams, hopes and fears?

I passed abandoned farm fields to the left and abandoned homes on the right. It really felt empty. Even streets with no people on them can feel alive, but this town was dead, as a doornail. Not even insects buzzing around.

I was about halfway through the 30 or so falling down, falling apart homes when a car came up from behind out of nowhere, it seemed to me. I was surprised to see the car stop some meters ahead of me.

An old man, 80+ years or more got out and in a slow crouch with weak steps, he approached me. He looked every bit of his age, but those blue eyes fixed on me with considerable interest. "Did you see an old woman in a jacket?"

I told him that I had not. He leaned in, uncomfortably close. "She's old, wearing a jacket and not right in the head. Did you see her?" He gave me that classic circular motion of the finger next to his ear.

Again I told him that I had not seen anyone. As he headed back to the car, I told him I could call nine-one-one if I saw someone.

He told me not to bother. He would look elsewhere. And then he took off in his little putt-putt car. I got the feeling that this was a regular experience for him.

Yeah, I really should have paid attention to the weird feeling that I had when I saw that frog in the middle of the road on entering this ghost town.

Anyway I pressed on. I only had 10 houses or so to get out of this town.

And that is when I saw her on my left, coming out of a little gully which was emptying out of one of the abandoned farm fields.

"Hello", she said.

"Hi", I answered back. "There's there's an old man looking for you."

She looked through me, past me. "I'm going to New Vernon."

I knew that town was over a hundred miles away. I said to myself, it was clear she was not right in the head.

She started walking alongside me and out of town. Well, what could I do? I called nine-one-one.

The dispatcher wanted to know where I was but being a ghost town, and one of several on this trail, and none had name boards, I had no idea where I was. All I could say was that I was just between one  town and some other town. It was frustrating for the dispatcher and me.

Just as I had exhausted any attempt at explaining where we were, the car came back. The dispatcher was as relieved as me. The old man got out and came towards us. Her called to her and walked up to take her by the hand.

The dispatcher wanted to talk to him, but he refused to take my phone, saying it was private business. There was nothing else to do. So the call ended.

That was when the old lady turned to me and said "Help me ... Help us." The old man said to her, "He will ... He will".

That was the last thing I remember. When I finally did start to get coherent again, it was evening and I think, but am not sure, that I had been walking around that town all day. Apparently no other living soul came thru, and I had been on my own. It is hard to believe that anyone would have left me there ... like that.

I found my stuff all strewn through the gully where the lady had come from.
It was all there. All except the journal of my memories, my hopes, my fears and my dreams, all meticulously written down during this hike so that I could recall and relive those important emotions.

For whatever reason, they took it ... And they took more. They somehow took six hours of me living my life. I don't think I'll ever get them back.





Sunday, October 7, 2018

Day 6: Xunqueira to Ourense

Day 6: Xunqueira to Ourense

Distance: 13 miles / 20 km

Total: 87 miles

Notable memories

Liosh and I spent some of the walk this morning by speaking in Russian, at a basic level, but none the less, I never thought I'd be speaking Russian on the Camino.

This is my last day to be with the Dutch folks, Franz and Bernadette, and the Hungarian, Liosh, as I'm taking a rest day tomorrow to go to Santiago to catch up with an old Camino amigo from 2016.

Jos is a Dutchman. He and I hiked about five or six days together on the Via de La Plata, to include climbing the highest point on that Camino, Pico de Los Duenos. We took time out at the top to look over the valley, have some lunch and share stories of our childhood.


Breaking dawn over Xunqueria



Not everything on the Camino is beautiful. Often we have to go through the industrial zones.



 It's a great day to be hiking Spain.




Plaza de Mayor, Ourense
It's a typical Saturday night in Spain and the center of the city is just looking beautiful.


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