Day 33: Milladoiro to Santiago

Milladoiro to Santiago

Distance: 5 miles / 8 km

Total: 345 miles.

Notable memories

The final day

Cheated this a.m. to keep weight off of the leg. Took a cab for 3 km, but walked the rest from the Santiago City limits.

Reached Plaza do Obradoiro and the Cathedral of Santiago about 8:45 and had compostela by 9:15. Almost no lines at the Pilgrim Support Office.

Just came from the noon All Saints Day Mass. It was beautiful. There was a procession, followed by the swinging of the Butafumiero ( 200 lb, I believe, incense burner ), followed by the singing of the All Saints Day Mass.

Cathy and I got separated by the crowds in the cathedral, but we both found today's mass to be a moving experience, each in our own way.

I know it sounds strange to say we had a joyous goodbye, but when it was time for her to go to the bus station and for me to go to the train station, we had already reflected back on how wonderful this always life transforming experience on the Camino de Santiago is.

Sometimes a person grows out here, and sometimes a person changes out here. But one never returns the same as when you left. Such is the miracle of the way of Saint James.

 Camiga Cathy and I complete the Camino Portuguese.

Looking down Rua do Carretas from the Centro International de Acogido de Peregrinos. It is a holy day, All Saints, and the center is so quiet, it's unbelievable. We got our Compostelas in under 15 minutes. That's a miracle in itself.

Day 32: Herbon to Milladoiro

Herbon to Milladoiro

Distance: 10 miles / 16 km

Total: 340 miles

Notable memories

The hike

The hike was memorable mainly because it was the last day of a full schedule. 

It was about 10 miles long, and although the sky was grey and cloudy, it did not rain which was a blessing. 

Amazingly I seem to have picked up a stress fracture on the very last day. Otherwise I cannot account for what's going on with my left leg. 

Stuff happens.

Tomorrow will be the end of the most amazing journey that I have ever taken.

 Last day was cloudy and damp but at least there was no rain

Less than 10 miles to Santiago

A soliloquy

  I was musing on topics for a soliloquy and it seems to me that Shakespeare's most powerful soliloquies whether for love or hate, explore the rawest, basest, deepest depths of emotion.

With that, I wrote the following soliloquy.


A short time I was vassal to your lordship.
I grieve a woman not for your highness - mine - taken.
Grieve the wrongness of your pleasures purposelessness.
Bring forth your scurrilous, salamander newts;
They die as quickly as you won't.
The hell in my tormented soul fires me;
Sends you to Perdition's coals.
Draw rapier for honor to prick your heart;
Stroke the shave of sword to your guileful mask
To feast there for sustaining redness.
For each cut on your corpse marks your sin.
No quickness, no quarter, no peace, no mercy.
Today you pass from here more slowly than her.
Burn as slowly as quickly as you took her
Pray demons of Dante's Inferno ever leave nothing of you.
Pray the Serpents of Hades consume you eternally.
Pray today you die to live in Hell.

Day 31: Caldas de Rei to Herbon

Caldas de Rei to Herbón

Distance: 12 miles / 19 km

Total: 330 miles

Notable memories

Today's lunch

Spanish Tortilla and calamari with fries.

Albergue de San Antonio de Herbón

The guide says that this particular albergue is a not to miss place. With a community dinner and a community breakfast and Pilgrim's Mass, I'm hoping for a nice spiritual experience to wind up this Camino.

Later that night ...

Cathy and I were the first to check in. So I was concerned that we'd be the only ones here tonight. It is the end of the season. But by the end of the night we had two men from the Czech Republic, one Hungarian woman, three German women and one German man, a Canadian and me. Plus our two Spanish hosts.

Had most amazing communal experience on Camino tonight. during the wishing of peace to fellow Mass attendees, I turned around to extend the greeting and there behind me were Anna and Eva, the young ladies that I originally met at the start of this Camino in Porto, Portugal. That was an amazing moment because I enjoyed their company at the start of this Camino in Portugal, and now they would be there for the end of it, or at least one of the last stages.

The pilgrim mass and blessing afterwards so choked me up that I could not deliver a final prayer and had to ask somebody else to do it for me. We had a truly outstanding community dinner and I can't wait for our community breakfast tomorrow morning before we all go our way.

Grounds of the Albergue de Petegrinos de San Antonio in Herbón.

Teresa giving us a tour

The chapel

Celebrated our Pilgrim's Mass and received the Pilgrim's blessing

Brother Jose gave us a tour of the chapel which was started in the XVI century

Pilgrim Blessing

Two days left

As I start this entry, it is so hard to even remember much of the first two parts of this journey.

It was about 10 days thru south central Galicia, followed by about a week in Ireland, followed by another two weeks and some in Portugal and south west Galicia.

Sometimes it seems like I remember all the travel between countries better than the travel in the countries.

There were times when I  wished it was all over, but it would be nice if the Camino could continue.

Where would I go if I could continue?

So many choices.

Portugal would be on the list. I came to like my time there. I realized that I was limiting myself to Spain.

Certainly back to Spain.

Ireland is a definite. Wales and Scotland for a Celtic Camino.

And now it is time to consider hiking in Latin America. Argentina and Chile seem to be calling me.

Day 30: Pontevedra to Caldas de Rei

Pontevedra to Caldas de Rei

Distance: 14 miles / 23 km

Total: 318 miles

Notable memories

The distance

Today I realized that I had hiked over 1000 miles in Europe. Adding up my last four Caminos, I hit the 785 mile mark. About 4 days ago I reached 225 miles on this Camino. So that was the day when I broke the 1000-mile barrier of hiking in Europe.  Pretty proud of myself. So right now I'm just short of 1100 miles with only 25 miles to Santiago and the end of this year.

Today's hike

The wrapup

The plan for the next two days: tomorrow to go to Padron and spend the night at the monastery in a traditional Pilgrim support albergue; next day stop 6 km short of Santiago and the following day to head in to Santiago at sunrise.

Spend Thursday in Santiago and catch the train to Madrid in the afternoon.

Friday in Madrid. Saturday board the plane. And Sunday I will be back home.

That will mark the end of  Camino 2018.

Just one of those many pretty little churches that I passed by

Someone was enjoying the day

Following the Camino through the vineyards of Galicia

Church of Santo Tomas. Went to mass here tonight for some redemption. B-)

Day 29: Pozo de Mos to Pontevedra

Pozo de Mos to Pontevedra

Distance: 19 miles / 31 km

Total: 304 miles

Notable memories

The day

In order to have a rest day and allow for bad weather and allow for a day in Madrid, today started out as a 19 mile day. Camiga Cathy and I did it, but by the time we reached Pontevedra, we were both sore, quite sure.

The only agenda item really became something to eat and to bed. Tomorrow will be an easier day, only 12 miles but that's because I couldn't figure out how to squeeze in some extra miles.

At the halfway point, lots of pilgrims begin dropping out to spend the night in Arcade, a seaport town at the end of a fjord.  Arcade was the halfway point on today's hike for making any decisions. Cathy has been having issues but today she decided to go for it. I had been feeling pretty good and was ready for a challenge. So we went for it. Glad we did, but there was a price to pay.

The weather has been in our favor, but Tuesday, two days from today, the weather forecast says 90% chance of rain all day long. Not sure what I'll do then on Tuesday, whether to hunker down wherever I am or to press on.

That is the train bridge way high overhead, passing right through the center of town.



Train tracks thru and over Redondela

Camino shell display

Walking laundry. Shoes, pants, socks, shirt, Etc.

The fjiord at Arcade

Day 28: Tui to Pozo de Mos

Tui to Pozo de Mos

Distance: 15 miles / 25 km

Total: 285 miles

Notable memories

Highlights

Today's hike

Ran into Camiga Cathy at the albergue in Tui. She had jumped ahead and was resting. We caught up, and planned to hike today.

So today we did an easy 15 miles. Nicest part was the park path along the Rio Louro in O Porriño.

Other than that, we made it to the albergue pretty seamlessly.

Wanted to go to mass tonight, but just like in America,  the priest only comes on occasion. Since no one in the town signed up for a Saturday evening Mass, the priest did not come.

Had a chance to help a New Zealand family out. One of the members blew out her knee, so they had to abort their trip. I placed a call to the taxi for them and did the translation since they didn't speak Spanish.

Day 27: La Bruja to Tui

La Bruja to Tui, Spain

Distance: 17 miles/ 29 km

Total: 270 miles

Notable memories

The hike

Once again I came across a lot of beautiful scenery today. From walking through pine woods and up mountains over stone path trails and walking under trails covered in vineyards, Portugal is very beautiful today.

At the height of today's highest climb (Alto de Portela), I came across the cross dedicated to the inhabitants of La Bruga who gave their lives fighting the French and Napoleon's army of invasion in 1809.

It's now become a place where many pilgrims leave memories of their loved ones. Perhaps leaving a memento of a loved one here at the top of this mountain helps them ease the pain of the loss.

One picture caught my eye. It was of a young woman who died young. I was struck by the fates that somehow determine who gets to be a part of this world and who must leave it. When standing in front of these memories of loved ones that people have left at these sites doesn't move me or bother me, there will be something wrong with the life I'm living.

Today I also walked along part of a trail called the Roman XIX road. 2000 years ago, this was a road of high commerce, culture and Roman influence on the Iberian peninsula. The Via Romana XIX, initially known as "Antonine Itinerary", was the longest of the four avenues built on NW Hispanic. United the capitals of Gallaecia: Brácara Augusta (Braga) and Astúrica Augusta (Astorga) through Lucus Augusti (Lugo). ... And I walked just a miniscule portion of the Roman Road Network.

Roman road system

Met a man on the Camino today. His name is Howard. Turns out he met Camiga  Cathy last night. So when I told him I was from New York, he pointed at me and said that I was 'that New Yorker'. At first I was paranoid that I was building a reputation, despite being on my best behavior, but then he explained to me how Cathy had told him how much fun she had walking and hiking with me. Howard is also a New Yorker and he's an RIT graduate.

And finally today I crossed the border between Portugal and Spain. I am once again in Spanish territory as I continue my Camino Portuguese to Santiago.

Today's pictures

Cross at the top of Alto da Portela Grande de Labruja

View from Alto da Portela Grande de Labruja

I did a web search on this young woman, but no luck. I have no idea why she died or what led someone to leave a memory of her on the Camino Portuguese.
(Note: 4/27/20 - Fedra Partata spent much of her life in hospitals due to a genetic defect that left her immune compromised. See online article.)

Part of the climb up to Alto da Portela Grande

Trail covered by vineyards

Three hat Howard and I. Chance encounter on the Camino

Part of today's trail follows the Roman Road XIX, constructed in the 1st century A.D. to link the cities of Braga and Astorga. I'm following the footsteps of people who traveled here 2000 years ago.

Leaving Portugal and entering Spain

Videos

Just some really peaceful quiet place I came across on today's hike.

Alto da Portela Grande. It really was that quiet up there.