Day 19: From Annascual to Dingle

From Annascual to Dingle

Distance: 13 miles/ 22 km
Total: 185 miles

Notable memories

The Beer

I know I'm supposed to really want to try the beer, but at the end of all days so far ... All I want is a coffee. Lol

Kerry Camino

Finished. I made it over 36 miles in Ireland despite the rain, mud and slop on the trails, and an infection. Crazy.

Saw a doctor for my thumb. All things considered, she thought it looked okay for what it was. She patched me up, gave me a prescription if I need it, and proclaimed me healthy. Can't put a price on piece of mind, which I now have.

Dingle way

I now continue with the Dingle Way for 4 or 5 more days. I have flexibility in the schedule.

Random thought

I'm doing okay for a guy of 65 years young.

I feel exhausted tho'.

I started on a dystopian story about a woman who loses everything in an unplanned and unnatural event.

When I get going, it just seems like I can't stop scribbling more and more words on the paper.

Dingle

I finally made it into my first Irish pub tonight, but that was because they had a sandwich special that was too good to ignore.

A lot of the places here have €25 dinners, and I just really wasn't in the mood for that. 

But I did make it into the Dingle pub where I had a half pint of Guinness, a grilled sandwich of ham, cheese, tomato and onion, with a serving of  french fries and a very good, very different kind of salad.

Tonight at the hostel is a group of musicians and they're actually playing folk music in the next room. That's kind of a nice feeling.

Ruins of Minard Castle

I wonder what live was like a thousand years ago here

Beach along Minard Castle

Towards the end of the days hike

Dingle

St Mary's Church

Day 18: From Camp to Annascaul

From Camp to Annascaul

Distance: 10 miles / 17 km
Total: 172 miles

Notable memories

Annascaul

Yesterday and this morning none of the bed and breakfasts answered the phone or replied to my voicemail.

So I wasn't surprised when I finally made it to the town that none of the bed and breakfasts in my trail guide were open.

I had been thinking about this all day and my fall back plan was to catch a taxi to the next town of Dingle and then catch a cab back in the morning to continue the hike. Not desirable, but the camino is what it is.

I asked a lady in a small mum and pop store for help. She sent me to another b&b. They were closed also.

Starting to freak now.

But the man was nice enough to point me in the direction of one more place.

So tonight I'm staying at Paddy's Palace. Is that an authentic name or what?

And it's a hostel, not a bed and breakfast. Just what I was looking for. €10 to rest up and not €50.

The camino provides. Sometimes you just have to work really hard at it. Lol

John

I had the most interesting pleasure the meeting John at the hostel. He is a diehard Irishman, member of Sinn Fein and considers himself a leftist extremist.

We talk politics, lots of politics. He is an interesting conversationalist and I enjoyed the many discussions I had with him.

But make no mistake, for John there is only one Ireland.

Irish breakfast

On the trail to Annascaul

First view of the Atlantic, sort of.

Inch Beach

Day 17: Tralee to Camp

Tralee to Camp

Distance: 11 miles / 18 km
Total: 162 miles

Notable memories

Picked up an infection

About 5 days ago back in Spain, I got my thumb between a door and door frame. I thought that I had just a bruise. But apparently not. So have to get my antibiotics and antifungal creams out to keep this in check ... which so far is not working.

Looking for a doctor because you can't buy an antibacterial ointment in Ireland without a prescription.

 St John's Church, Tralee

After Tuesday evening Mass

Starting the Kerry Camino and Dingle Way

On the Irish Camino

Today's Lesson

Planned on making more distance than I had, but that was my choice to make.

Unavailability of accommodations were just working out that way. 

The day started out with the misty rain, but it was doable. It did stay grey and cloudy most of the day.

Also while walking the trail alongside the mountain range, the glacial valleys funneled any winds into quite a constant breeze. It was quite the struggle. Occasionally I would find myself losing my footing mid step as the wind would push me to the side.

While doing today's stage, the trail itself along the side of the mountain was quite difficult. First of all, it was very muddy, sloppy and wet in many places. Although there were stones for me to step on, the guide said that I should expect to slip several times in ankle deep water and this is what happened. 

So by the time I was reaching the end of the mountain trail, I had really had enough and decided to detour down to the main road. when I got to the main road, it was a quick time to take care of the feet. That meant a change of socks and shoes. I then headed into the town of Camp. 

I had a quick decision to make. Continue on as I was going to go, adding several hours to the day or just call it quits. Stopped in one of the bars, and was talking with the bartender, and she let me know of a the place in the town that I had not tried yet for accommodations. Since it was going at 4 o'clock, it became really obvious that I just had to pack it in for the day.

Worked out the arrangements and I'm now resting, in a b&b overlooking Tralee Bay.

Bed and breakfast overlooking the bay. I'll be having an Irish breakfast here tomorrow morning.

Dialog for a Play

Some dialog that I thought about the other day about a recent experience. Not complete or even thought out, but certainly the start of something.

Franz. What did he do for you?

Bernadette. Well, that could be a whole story.

Franz. Curious, fact or fiction?

Bernadette. How about six of one and half a dozen of the other?

Franz. Baker's dozen.

Bernadette. You trying to get something extra? 

Franz. Just a nugget of truth.

Bernadette. How about a doughnut hole?

Franz. That's like taking something away.

Bernadette. Something like that.

Franz. Like what? 

Bernadette. Like a hole that won't close.

Franz. A doughnut hole is what makes the doughnut's hole.

Bernadette. When you take something away.

Franz. You could put it back in.

Bernadette. Donut holes are better alone. 

Franz. I've some extra fruit.

Bernadette. No thanks. I ended up alone.

Franz. And that is bad, why? 

Bernadette. Aren't we meant to be with someone?

Franz. Not necessarily.

Bernadette. You are kidding. You must have some one.

Franz. A bad relationship is worse than no relationship.

Bernadette. I don't think so. You're not alone in a bad relationship.

Franz. There's alone and there's lonely.

Bernadette. I'd like a piece of fruit now.

Franz. Help yourself. Just don't think a full belly is a happy belly.

Bernadette. They say your soul can be full.

Franz. Is this about your soul?

Bernadette. Before he left, he was my soul.

Franz. And your heart.

Bernadette. My heart is an organ, that's all.

Franz. That is cynical. The heart is a metaphor.

Bernadette. Metaphors hide the truth.

Franz. What are you hiding?

Bernadette. Obscuring.

Franz. Some cookies?

Bernadette. Thanks.

Franz. You know what I think?

Bernadette. Yes, I do.

Franz. You don't know. You're not really listening. You're reacting.

Bernadette. I hear you.

Franz. You didn't listen to him.

Bernadette. What did you hear him say?

Franz. To me, one thing. To you, another.

Bernadette. Why am I even walking with you?

Franz. You're lonely. And I'm your friend.

Bernadette. Then why are you letting me walk with you?

Franz. I'm not lonely and you are my friend.

Bernadette. Huh?

Franz. Another cookie?

Bernadette. Thanks.

Franz. People carry stones out here.

Bernadette. A metaphor burden.

Franz. What are you carrying?

Bernadette. My backpack. It's what I have and all that I have.

Franz. The metaphor. Are you not feeling something?

Bernadette. Love. 

Franz. You could have love out here.

Bernadette. There's no one out here.

Franz. For Christ's sake.

Bernadette. Who are you talking about?

Franz. Anyway, me. I may need someone. Would you be there?

Bernadette. Yes.

Franz. Then I'm ok.

Bernadette. Will you be there?

Franz. I'm here now. I was here for you. Tomorrow and forever.

Bernardette. Maybe it's time for some chocolate.

Franz. It's yours. All yours.

Day 13 - 16: Santiago de Compostela to Tralee

Santiago de Compostela to Tralee

Distance: N/A
Total: 151 miles

Notable memories

Santiago

Well the next 36 hours are all about traveling. Hurricane Leslie is about to hit Portugal later today with full force. Hopefully it does not affect my flight out of Madrid.

So I have a day to kill in Santiago. 

My bus leaves here tonight at 9:30 and goes overnight to Madrid Airport. I do have some things I can do here.

I'm going to check out the pilgrim Center. They have a spiritual retreat at 2:30. So I'll make that. And I guess I'll take that walk around the cathedral.

Walking around, I saw this interesting view of the Cathedral thru a little side alley.

Different view of the Cathedral

Line of pilgrims waiting to get Compostela. Glad I did it yesterday.

Bus ride to Madrid Barajas airport

Well I didn't think I could spend the afternoon just walking around the cathedral but I did. There was a "Santiago is for pianos" event so they were three different places where pianos were put out for people to play. it was a fascinating cultural event, to see so many people gathered around amateur performers playing high quality music.

Other than that I continued to walk around and take in the entire atmosphere of Santiago. What an amazing city.

I also had time to do some thinking, since I wasn't in the hike and get to the next town mode. It was a good down day. Time for reflection and introspection. Don't think I really had anything I had to reprove over, but it's always good to review one's life and actions and goals and purposes.

I'm now sitting in a semi empty bus station. I'm amazed at how little activity there is here on a Saturday evening. Even the restaurant is closed. But I stopped in the market and got some snacks for the bus trip which is about 10 hours long. But at least the trip takes me directly to the Madrid Airport. A real convenience.

Madrid

At the airport. Checked in. Through security. At the terminal. Having breakfast.

London Heathrow

Through the immigration checkpoint. I was surprised that it was done here in the UK but that's good. I don't have to do it later after I get to Ireland.

Wasn't much to see and landing. It's raining here and there's lots of cloud cover.

The impression I have of Heathrow is that it is a seething, coagulating, waving and flowing, current with eddys everywhere from a never-ending wave of people, going and coming in all directions. For someone who has come from the quiet of the camino, this can be quite a daunting experience.

Dublin

I just realised what is different about this Camino. My other Caminos have been structured. I knew where I was going to sleep. I knew how far I was going to walk.

Now I never know what is going to happen beyond 1 or 2 days. This is a whole new way of doing the Camino.

I have to learn to embrace the disorder.

This thought came to me as I was getting off the airplane in Dublin. What a time for such a realisation.

So I'm checked into my airbnb reservation and I'm all set for tomorrow. Got a cab coming to pick me up in the morning. Will get me to St James church for my credentials. And then somehow I'll get over to the bus station for which I have already purchased a ticket. So Tralee here I come. And it looks like Tuesday I will begin the Kerry Camino.

Got my pilgrims passport from St James church.
Hiked on over to Burgh Quay to catch my bus to Tralee.

The next three stories are in that wonderful Irish accent.

Story 1. At the bus stop, I ask a guy if there is a company rep around. He says to me, "Not a double chance in hell. There never one around. You know there's a problem when they all disappear." Then he went on for a few minutes regaling me. Lol

Story 2. I heard the Irish like to swear. Last night, at a pizza place, the clerk figured out that I was from America. So he wanted to talk. He was about 18 years old and use more cusswords in a short conversation then I've used in the last month.

Story 3. Irish sense of humour. When I was getting on the bus to Tralee, I told the driver this is my first time on a Dublin Coach bus. "Was I supposed to sit somewhere in particular?" He said anywhere I want to, and then he laughed and pointed to the driver's seat, and said, "except there".

 I also found Dublin beautiful but also at the same time unremarkable.

Tralee

Having Indian food in an Irish town.

Hard to find something interesting in Tralee to take a picture of.

It's kind of a tourist town.

I did meet Phillip in the lobby of the hostel. Quite the story teller. He actually went over 20 minutes on one story, but it was irishly entertaining.